Argentina II — Eco Akamai

Our Wild Terrains Argentina Adventure was two years in the making. It was originally planned as a “I beat cancer, let’s go celebrate!” trip. But then COVID did not end. Delta hit and it was cancelled, and then Omicron hit and we moved it to Feb. 2023. Then the time had finally come to head down South with Lori, Annie, and Dianne!

We had a wee bit of a challenge launching. The day started early with the news that an Arctic Blast was going to hit Portland. We shifted our plans quickly and booked a room at the Airport Sheraton. Lori zipped up from Salem, I power packed, and we were off at 4:30pm as snow was dusting our hills. Portland is expecting 4-12 inches, so if we wanted to get out, we needed to go tonight. We connected with Dianne. And voila, our adventure has started!

We were up at 4:15am to catch the shuttle. We checked in and did not have to do the cumbersome Verifly. We grabbed coffees and headed to our gate. We headed to DFW for a big layover, which we happily passed by eating, shopping and drinking beers. Meanwhile, Annie was having a very challenging time finding a flight to get her out of Denver. She finally arrived 45 minutes before we boarded and our Fabulous Four was complete.

And we were officially en route and Hello São Paulo! So much greenery when coming in and then tons of fog at the airport. Excited to come back here one day to explore. We officially cannot count it as a country visited because we did not leave the airport … but still pretty cool to land here. We arrived to Mendoza later in the day and spent the afternoon drinking Aperol Spritzes at the hotel pool enjoying the cool water and the sun. We had dinner at the hotel and Dianne ordered us many delicious appetizers to share. The burrata was beyond creamy as was the entre of goat … not something any of us often eat and we want to challenge ourselves and eat the local specialities when we travel. Thank you Anthony Bourdain! It was so tender and tasty. Lori and Annie ventured out to check out the city and Dianne and I crashed.

We were so happy to arrive to the Park Hyatt Mendoza hotel, jump into the pool and enjoy a few beverages!

Breakfast at the Park Hyatt was a beautiful buffet and we loved the block of honeycomb honey. Then we headed out to explore Mendoza and each of us found a treasure to remember our visit.

We hopped Ubers to start our Wild Terrains trip. Entre Cielos Wine Hotel and Spa is a stunning property and we met our amazing Guide Paige. We enjoyed some Orange Wine of Argentina, and then it was off to the Spa & Humam … such a unique and amazing experience of saunas, exfoliation, pools, hot stone, olive oil rub, and relaxation with hydrating beverages and snacks at the end. Seriously, my favorite spa experience ever!

A BOUTIQUE HOTELEXPERIENCE In Mendoza, Argentina

Tucked among the celebrated Malbec vines that have made Mendoza one of the world’s premier wine capitals is where you’ll find Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel + Spa. See firsthand why it’s one of the most luxurious hotels in Mendoza, Argentina. Explore its charms and feel free amongst its natural splendor and its modern mix of solitude and sophistication.

We headed to architectural delightful vineyard lofts and changed for our wine dinner at La Garde’s Zonda. Once there, we were greeted by one of the female owners and fourth generation of the vineyard. We toured the organic garden with the chef and tasted so many delicious flavors and flowers. Dinner was expertly paired with the food and we had pumpkin with pomegranate seeds, heirloom tomatoes, burrata with sautéed onions and so much more. We celebrated the meal with their champagne and then headed over to the family’s birthday party to dance … such a treat to experience the big party! When we returned to the hotel, we enjoyed the lightening and thunder shower with big gin and tonics, which Dianne calls Jim and Tanya’s … and with our new best friend Valerie.

About Zonda “Thoughtful cooking comes from our landscape and soil, all the way to its natural products, as well as from the hands of the farmers who take care of it. We invite you to explore our gardens and history in order to share the andean culture with you, where the best recipes are the reflection of the landscape.”

After a delicious breakfast, we headed up to Piattelli Vineyards. On our way to load the bus, we saw a family of foxes which Barb spotted. We met with the female wine maker and took a tour of the impressive facilities and discovered egg vats for mixing the wine. Then we had a surprise activity of blending our own wines. Two teams were tasked with crafting a new unique variety. We had so much fun mixing and matching and named ours Ver Una, which means See Grape, inspired by our favorite store Ver in Mendoza and the verb means “to see” in Spanish. The other team named theirs Foxy Terrain, which is a super cute combo of our trip and our fox wildlife spotting. After a delicious lunch of tons of fun conversations, creamy tortellini and a delicious dessert, we had our taste off. Our wine won! And the wine maker selected the other one, so we were all winners. When we got back to the hotel, we all hit the pool to cool down, get some exercise …. and of course for some afternoon refreshments. For dinner, we stayed on site and had a late dinner. Dianne and I shared the Empanadas and a tasty green salad. Then the skies opened up for more thunder and lightening … and we enjoyed every moment.

VALERIA ANTOLIN, PRINCIPAL WINEMAKER PIATTELLI

A 4th Generation Winemaker. The heart of Piattelli. Having been with Piattelli from its birth, she treats every grape as though it were one of her (adorable) boys. Daughter to a famous Mendozan winemaker, and with a degree in Agronomy from Universidad Nacional de Cuyo. Her passion leads Piattelli into the future of winemaking. Valeria leads and guides all Piattelli winemaking in both Mendoza & Cafayate.

Lori and I took a nice workout walk around the property and the it was time to fuel up, pack up, and head out. On our drive up to the Andes we had beautiful views of thistle, hawks, falcons, horses, and sheep.

When we arrived at the Los Chulengos, it was like being transported to my kind of heaven. Annie and I were in the kitchen room which was at the heart of the action. Lunch was a spread of caprese skewers, sweetbreads, and avocado toastettes. Lunch was paired with delicious wines, three types of beef, sweet creamy corn with red peppers, crisp potato slices, a fresh salad, and a selection of salsas. We relaxed in the sunshine, and drank some delicious coffee … which Amber and drank as shots, which was super fun and funny. After noticing my poncho was on inside out, Paige got me all set and declared me Queen of the Horses in the Andes. Giddy up, we were ready to go! I rode Commetta and we got along great. We rode up into the beautiful Andes and we were all in awe. Our small group opted to go further and we crossed the river a few more time and scaled the ridge on our return. Truly magical! We gathered for dinner which was cooked on the open fire. We enjoyed fried cheese and empanadas outside and the chicken pot pie and a gooey dessert on the inside. A perfect day!

IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ANDES MOUNTAIN RANGE

In the privileged Uco Valley surrounded by the Andes Mountain you will find Estancia Los Chulengos. The ranch is an untouched natural beauty located only one and a half hours from the city of Mendoza.
Los Chulengos is a magically unique place, ideal for those who want to relax and rest, as well as the perfect place for the more adventurous. Here everyone can enjoy activities while being surrounded by grand valleys, magnificent peaks of the Andes and a beautiful winding river that meanders back and forth across the property.

We, the Palma family, have been opening our gates for the last twenty years to share this paradise with our guests, who take the front seat and call the shots in this unforgettable adventure.

A sunny morning at the ranch is my favorite kind of way to start the day! We enjoyed huevos and bacon for breakfast with a peach smoothie. Lori and I walked around the property and she found a birds nest … such a cool memento! We saw the big stallion and then went up to see the baby and the younger stallion … which was experience of a lifetime as we stood with them inside the fence! Then, as we were leaving, we saw a condor … making our horsey nature adventure officially complete! We said our goodbyes and headed to the airport to catch our plane to Buenos Aires.

And the unhappy girl on the other side of the fence.

We landed at AEP and headed to Palermo Hollywood to our hotel, Home Hotel. The hotel is adorable and we gathered by the pool for gin and tonics before we headed to our cooking class.

Home Hotel was “founded by Irish-Argentine, Patricia O’Shea and Brit hubby Tom Rixton, this cool and — we have to say it — chic hotel has 18 lovely rooms available, all wired and ready to plug in your ipod.

Music is important here — Rixton is a music producer who has worked with groups such as Depeche Mode, Suede and Argentina’s Victoria Mil and his original playlists are rotated weekly in the lounge and restaurant.

O’Shea for her part, used to be in charge the catering for U2. Bono even stopped by Home in 2006 to give an intimate concert here after his stadium gig in Buenos Aires.”

With Toti Quesada, we made empanadas and I really enjoyed the art of folding them. A truly delicious way to end the day.

Toti Quesada is a cooking queen and a lover of all things about Empanadas!

Today is our Evita Tour! We saw the Evita Peron statue by where she died. We explored at the Plaza de Mayo and admired the the Casa Rosada, the “pink house” We learned about the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo. We walked over to the Puerto Madero neighborhood, where every street is named in honor of a famous woman from Argentine history. And for our final stop, we went to the Recoleta Cemetery to pay our respects to Evita.

Wild Terrains recommended reading Evita by Jill Hedges and it was so interesting to learn more about her life.

A tribute to those that passed awey during COVID.

We had a free afternoon, so the girls an I walked over to La Rambla for some Aperol Spritzes and sandwiches for lunch. It was fun knowing the neighborhood as I was just here last month. Then we went shopping at Arandu for western goodies and then to Piel Libre, a brand I discovered when I was in Ushuaia. Apparently it is in not super safe to be in that neighborhood at night so owner sent us home in an Uber to keep us safe.

For dinner, we went to Anafe and Chef Mica Najmanovich made us Beef Carpaccio, ceviche, liver pate mouse on savory muffins, dulce du leche with white peaches for dessert. And some Evita inspiration … “We must be at the service of others and we should never put our head on the pillow without asking ourselves what we had done that day for our fellows.” I made a note to read “The Reason of my Life” by Eva Peron.

:MICA NAJMANOVICH, CHEF

“Born, raised and based in Buenos Aires, Mica Najmanovich is one of the young female upcoming chefs of Argentina. Trained as a pastry chef, this 30-year-old cook owns and runs ANAFE together with her partner in life and in business, Nico Arcucci. Inspired by her Jewish upbringing and her time in Australia, her work has the confidence and precision of an experienced chef and tastes like everywhere and nowhere at the same time. Known for her innovative approach to dish designing, Mica is a relentlessly creative chef. Meticulous up to the bone, she lives for the thrill of cooking.”

We had a nice relaxing morning with a leisurely workout sesh at the pool. Then we took a nice city walk over to Palmero to shop for jewelry, clothing and art and take lots of awesome street art photos along the way. I loved revisiting Patron and I bought a fox necklace by Ximena Clavelli to remember our trip as we saw a few foxes at Entre Cielos. And we also bought one for our newly christened Bobbi as she spotted the fox and is our warrior princess. And a beautiful ribbon necklace for the newly named Valeria. Then it was off to lunch at La Hormiga for traditional BA pizza and salads with gin and tonics, of course.

The afternoon took us to a Leather making workshop at Nimes where we made basket handbags and shopped for treasures.

About Nimes “We are Clara and Santiago. In 2016 we founded Nimes, our brand of vegetable tanned leather goods, and in 2019 we incorporated unwashed denim. We strive to design uniquely timeless pieces, products that improve after being worn with love.”

Then it was off to a wine tasting Argentinian wines made by female wine makers with tasty snacks at Pan et Vin. The roasted eggplant with pomegranate seeds … my official new favorite garnish.

About Pan et Vin and owner Eleonora Jezzi “A wine store with wine tastings and wine flights plus some things on the side … a menu based on our homemade sourdough bread.”

We were up early, packed, coffee-fueled, and off to airport. We had a chance encounter with Alex, a founder of Guayaki Yerba Mate … and so happy to share with him that it is the boys favorite drink! We touched down in beautiful Patagonia and the blue skies stretched in every direction. Lunch was at the La Cabrona famous food cart. We started with the moistest falafel that I’ve ever had. Then it was pounded Veal sandwiches with fried egg, then one with fried cheese and the last with sesame encrusted provolone and gooey chutney. Plus the best food truck views ever! We went to the hotel and enjoyed a sunny afternoon by the pool and many of the girls did the polar plunge. And we saw the Southern Cross for the first time … truly unbelievable!

About La Cabrona + Julieta Caruso, Valentina Caruso, Paz Bacigalupo

We went to the Hotel Correntoso and enjoyed a sunny afternoon by the pool. Several of the girls did the polar plunge. And we saw the Southern Cross for the first time … truly unbelievable!

Lakeside beauty at the foot of the Patagonian Andes

“Nestled in the shadows of the Andes, Correntoso Lake & River Hotel has a spectacular setting on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi. An historic retreat for adventure and nature lovers since 1917, this charming, yet sophisticated, hotel provides gourmet cuisine, an inviting spa and is superbly placed to enjoy adventurous outdoor activities in Argentina’s Lake District.

Here, nature meets nurture with rooms that have the most exhilarating lake and mountain views, plus a spa in which to soothe tired limbs following a day of challenging outdoor pursuits. Enjoy intimate, ambient evenings in the wine bar mingled with warmth and soft music. Then, dine in Correntoso Lake & River Hotel’s Gourmet Restaurant on Mediterranean-inspired, local cuisine accompanied by glorious Argentinean wines.”

We started the day with a morning yoga/meditation workshop and then it was off a hike to a waterfall. It was spritzing a bit as we climbed up Patagonia. The destination was stunning and we enjoyed a picnic lunch while we took in the views. So glad we went up early as the trail for super busy on our return trip. The afternoon was spent at the pool and I am in awe of our views.

Later, we took a ride to our lamb dinner at a rustic estancia. We soaked up the views and smells and the feasted on trout toasts with sage flower garnishes, a flash fried and sweet dough empanada. Then the salad course arrived with tomato salad, potato salad with red onions and egg, and then a green salad. Roasted Lamb on the open fire was our featured entre and we started with ribs and then had some tender meat. For me, the food became a vessel for the chimichuri sauce which incredibly tasty. Dessert was buttercup squares that melted in our mouths. I took some home for the boys but not sure they’ll make it back. We danced and then rocked out to some 89’s music on the way home.

After fueling up on coffee, we took a boat ride to an island for a hike in the Nahuel Huapi National Park … pinch me! I am exploring at national parks around the world!!! We hiked through the forest from one beach to another. A local dog joined us and she helped chase away the free roaming cows … and one big bill. We landed on the beach to a catered lunch of trout sandwiches and salads and many Heinekens. I spent the afternoon catching up with family and taking a siesta.

Then it was time for our final final dinner … sadly our amazing Wild Terrains adventure was coming to a close. Desert was flan with dulce de leche and I ate it all. We had such had an awesome and educational trip and I have met new favorite friends for life. This was a transformative trip for so many of us and I am excited to travel with Wild Terrains again soon!

I was up early to say goodbye to our travel companions that were flying out early. Our dear friend Valeria wrote this beautiful note and I could not agree more. Then it was time to pack it up and head out. Uruguay here we come! Adios Ciao Ciao! to Argentina … You have my heart! Thank you Paige and Wild Terrains for the awesome adventure!!! ♥️

To our intrepid & hilarious guide

And to all the single ladies,

the mother & daughter duo,

the three wise amigas,

and last but not least the Fabulous Four…

A big heartfelt thank you to all for making this Argentina trip so memorable…

Safe journeys & happy trails!

💗Valeria

We started off at BRC with what we thought would be an easy travel day to Uruguay and it turned out to be full of surprises. Dianne with her stomach bug and Annie with her bee sting we’re troopers as we navigated our challenge of obtaining apparently new and very required health travel insurance. After a brief stint trying to troubleshoot and acquire it over the phone, we opted to fly to BA to get back to the city. While en route, we strategized and crafted our plan. Upon arrival, we tried again with detailed notes from our trusty travel agent Delora. However, after it was kindly escalated to a supervisor, it was indeed determined that it was a necessity. The good news is that they sold it on “day of travel” in BA at an airport kiosk. Hello Assist Card! Yes, we can translate our request into Spanish, happily! With our official docs in hand, we found our super friendly agent, checked our bags, and we’re off! Bonus is that Delora booked us in the front of the bus, so we snuggled up with glee in row 2 and it was wheels up to Montevideo.